Caps and Buttons

A few weeks ago, I walked over to my favorite haberdashery, Arnold's Hats, to find a cap for the cold weather. I used to work on 35th and 8th Avenue, so during lunch I'd walk over and stare at the huge storefront window filled with Stetsons and Kangols. This time around I was greeted by an older burly man with a soft smile who started throwing different hats at me once I told him what I was looking for. Almost immediately he began telling me stories and I soon learned that this was Arnold Rubin, the shop's proprietor (that's Arnold on the right with his son, Mark). While I tried on different styles, he told me of fishing trips he took with his grandkids down in Sheepshead Bay, of crazy customers, of his sons who worked alongside him. He knew I wanted a gray wool cap for Autumn, but, being the consummate salesman, he took me through all the styles, not just colors, to find which one fit best. I finally settled on a nice cap made in The Bronx, but it was black. He told me that since he didn't have it in gray, he would special order one and call me when it came in.

I came out of the shop exhilarated. This was the type of interaction I love; there was an intimacy there that is seriously lacking in most daily commerce. I think I learned from my parents the importance of building relationships to your quality of life. To have a trusted mechanic, a reliable plumber, a local grocer who will tell you which variety of melon is particularly good...these things ameliorate your daily comings and goings - which brings me to Glenn the Cheese Guy.

I was charged with putting together a cheese plate for a pot-luck dinner party on Saturday night at my aunt & uncle's. Picking out a cheese plate was something I'd never done before, but I was delighted to try my hand at it. I started off at the Fort Greene Farmer's Market on Saturday morning at the stand for Consider Bardwell Farm, a wonderful artisanal cheesemaker from West Pawlett Vermont. After tasting a bite of their creamy Mettowee chevre, I could not resist. I bought a 'button'. The woman behind me in line, who turned out to be one of the owners of Stonehome Wine Bar down the street, gave a cheer of approval. I was feeling good.


Next, my plan was to visit Greene Grape Provisions, on Fulton in Fort Greene, a specialty grocery with fresh fish, meats, locally grown vegetables and a killer selection of cheeses. As I got to the cheese section, the guy behind the counter was handing little samples of something to his customers; he offered me a slice too. Once they were helped, I explained my situation and he seemed eager to help. I noticed they also sold the Mettowee I had gotten early. I figured because I already had a light goat cheese, I wanted something a little heavier, maybe creamier. My adventure was just beginning. As I started tasting cheese, we chatted. I learned that the guy helping me was Glenn. He from Lansing Michigan where he parents ran two cheese shops. On the weekends he comes into Provisions to be their resident cheese guy.


The second cheese I was given was also from Consider Bardwell, this one the Taleggio-styled East Dorset. Glenn was spouting all kinds of knowledge, like how it was aged two months in high moisture caves to give it some extra funk. I was sold. We went through a bunch more before he asked the infamous question, "How do you feel about Blues?" I told him I was apprehensive, but not adverse. He gave me something just in from London, which I liked a lot. Then he said, "you know, sometimes, if I'm putting together a plate, I like to go regional. How about this Blue from the other side of Vermont?" This was a Bayley Hazen Blue from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro. It wasn't super strong, but it had tons of flavor. Done. I had my plate. As I left, I thanked Glenn for his help and he said, "Anytime, Noah. You should come to our next wine and cheese tasting a week from Friday." Now I have a cheese guy.